Bringing Out the Old World in Barbera d’Asti
We’re often inspired to mention the differences in “old world” and “new world” as we taste through our distributors’ wines at Vino Aroma, and while we can’t with good conscious simplify the diversity of wine into two camps, sometimes it’s the first question we address when determining where and how a wine was made. There are instances when this line is blurred and other times when there’s no denying the differences. Trinchero’s Barbera d’Asti Superiore 2008 is certainly the latter.
Piedmont, although steeped in a deep history of winemaking is no stranger to the influence of modern winemaking approaches. Whether it’s nebbiolo, barbera or dolcetto there’s ample evidence of internationally approved wines that boast plushness, power, abundant oak and a youthful “drink now” demeanor in the region. These wines aren’t necessarily better or worse and producers like Damilano and Pico Maccario have set the bar high for clean, crowd-pleasing modern versions of Piedmont reds that drink well in their youth.
Yet a few weeks ago we added another Barbera to the store and our restaurants’ list that is certainly “old world” in feel. Trinchero’s Terra del Noce Barbera d’Asti Superiore communicates the history of the region through its restrained fruit flavor and its delicate aging in cement and large Slovenian oak casks. The current release, 2008, reminds us that Barbera isn’t just for quaffing or youthful consumption.
Dried red fruits, plum, tobacco, leather and smoke assemble in a quintessentially Italian flavor profile that highlights its maturity and respect for what makes Piedmont reds so distinctive. It captures the character of old world Italy for $17 at the shop and we’re also offering it by the glass next door at Aroma on Main Street for a limited time.
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